EL Dorado has been doing quite a bit of experimentation over the last few years, from different cask finishes of their standard range, to high proof single still expressions, and all the way into pre-blending marques in the barrel for specific expressions. Like many experiments from different producers, I feel that in this case some have missed the mark, with the main reason being prices that feel far too high.
The somewhat recent single still expressions are some of the most affordable experiments of the distillery and are the only non-core range expressions currently available in Canada. In addition, they also seem to be free from post-distillation sweetening from my own measurements, but don’t @ me.
Furthermore, these are each twelve year old rums. Normally it would say it in the ring around the ‘2006’ marking of year of distillation, but that got changed for the Canadian market to give the equivalent ‘year of distillation’ phrase in French, as per Canadian law; I suppose they forgot to apply it somewhere else on the bottle (although the Versailles mentions it on the back label).
These have all aged with caramel in the barrel (again, the Versailles bottle specifically mentions it). Which, to the naked eye, isn’t a surprise. It is fairly unheard of to have a 12 year old spirit, tropically aged or otherwise, proofed down to 40% and retain such a deep copper colour, unless you perhaps microwaved the barrel.
These were all issued at equal prices of between ~$65-$90 Canadian, depending on the province.
El Dorado Single Still Versailles 2006 – (12 y.o., 40%)
The Versailles (Guyanese ‘Vur-Sails’, French ‘Vur-Sigh’) still is a single wooden vat still, identical in style to the Port Mourant still. I find they make similar distillate that can occasionally be difficult to distinguish from each other, though from personal experience, I’ve had a few more positive experiences with expressions from the Port Mourant still.
The Versailles started with a strong leather and caramel nose; the barrel-aged caramel is obvious, as uncoloured Versailles doesn’t smell quite as hefty. I won’t say this takes away from it, because I really do enjoy this profile, and there are plenty of Scotch distilleries that use colour as well (e.g. Dalmore, who use even more colour), but I think it would be disingenuous to not mention it. There is quite an expression of anise, then lime juice, a bit of rubber, school plasticine, honey. As I go deeper, further fruity aromas begin to really express themselves, such as cooked apple and some raisins and figs. There is a light nuttiness as well, a bit like roasted hazelnuts. The label mentions a ‘chocolatey’ profile, but I don’t get so much of that as I get just a bit of mocha; then again, that is perhaps a broad note, while I’m attempting to pick apart the finer aromas. A little spice rounds it all out, specifically some nutmeg, cinnamon, and a little vanilla bean, a bit of cola syrup.
On the palate, a somewhat expected but still surprising amount of flavour for only 40% (just don’t try to end a cask strength session with it). Some dark chocolate and anise intermingle with the molasses and leather notes, with a bit of mint on the finish…as well as some heavy tannin that isn’t quite balanced. Overall, some complexity, but the low proof doesn’t help it much. I’d be curious to see how the engine runs at full throttle.
(76pt)
El Dorado Single Still Enmore 2006 – (12 y.o., 40%)
The Enmore still makes a single EHP marque, which refers to Edward Henry Porter, the first owner of the Enmore estate. The still dates back to 1880 and is a fully wooden two-column coffey still with interior copper plates.
Maybe the descriptions between this and the last one got mixed up, because this is super chocolatey on the nose! As one should expect from most tropically aged column-still molasses rums, plenty of soft, chocolate fudge, coffee, a mixed pound of roasted hazelnuts and brazil nuts. A hint of dried orange peel, this one is actually a bit hotter on the nose than the last. Some big Bing cherries, blackberries, cooked pineapple, and dried mango. A little vanilla and allspice.
This one is a lot brighter and rounder on the palate, juicy, while keeping tannin in check. A little more of the typical Demerara profile folks enjoy, if that means anything to you. Dark fruit and more fudgey, two bite brownies. Really delicious stuff. I actually don’t get very excited about this style, but it really works here and, looking at it objectively, I enjoy it more than the Versailles, though we really have apples and oranges here.
(78pt)
El Dorado Single Still Port Mourant 2006 – (12 y.o. 40%)
El Dorado continues to refer to the Port Mourant double wooden vat still as a ‘pot’ still and mentions it’s the last of its kind in the world; yes and no. Yes, this style of still is the only one in existence, but for more of the reason that it is a wooden vat and not a wooden pot, as there are still a handful of wooden pot stills around the world. This is unique in that the bottom ‘pot’ is actually more like a barrel or wooden fermentation vat, topped with a swan neck. This style creates rum in a similar way to a double retort, but is certainly specific to this still and this still alone. It was moved from its known home on the Port Mourant estate (the origins of parts of the still may be even older than 1732) to the Uitvlugt (Guyanese ‘eye-flot’, Dutch ‘owt-vlookt’) Estate, where it resided until ~2000 before moving to its current resting place, the Diamond Distillery.
Okay, let’s see if this rum is actually as good as I’ve been telling people it is, though if you judge by the ounce or so left in the bottle, you’ll have your answer.
The wooden vat still profile we had from the Versailles is back after hitting both the gym and reading self-help books five days a week throughout COVID (home gym, I suppose). A tannery beside a garage, warm leather, hot engine oil, burnt rubber, this is my dad’s garage in liquid form. A little dark fruit in back, lots of leather, tanner vibes. Really like a Diet Caroni. Wow. This could easily be 48% in terms of flavour, but the watery texture is obvious . Either way, it is packed with flavour and complexity, with a nice acidity that further balances the tannins that went unchecked in the Versailles. Very spicy, and easily reminiscent of the coloured, continentally aged Guyanese pot still rums I’ve had. If you’re curious about what those taste like and are not ready to take the plunge, try this for a preview. It really leaves the mouth all tingly and really adds an extra dimension to it, leaving pleasurable bitterness. This is a woody spirit as well, more in line with the El Dorado 15 year than 12 year.
Moreso than bourbon, rums from hot countries can heavily mature in as little as 8-10 years. Way more oily texture and more anise, but still very enjoyable even if, like me, you are not the biggest fan of licorice. Once you get accustomed to this profile, it goes down like its 60% water…oh wait….you get what I mean.
If you must pick one, I recommend it above the other two, easily.
(82pt)
Final Thoughts
Overall, I think these are quite interesting and I’m glad to be able to dig deeper into tropically-aged Demerara rum at a much more affordable rate than buying from independent bottlers. Having said that, I feel in most markets, these price many casual drinkers out of this edu-tainment (outside of Canada, these go for ~90GBP/90USD); additionally, at the lowest possible legal proof for rum, they will sadly fall to the bottom of the to-buy list for the majority of enthusiasts. I’m also being very nitpicky here, but the depictions on each bottle of their respective stills do not do them any sort of justice; an unfortunate shortcoming on the part of the design team, in my opinion.
Overall, a satisfactory line that I believe is worth at least a try, and should be owned by any Demerara enthusiast. They are a great place for someone beginning to learn more about how different stills affect rum, Demerara or otherwise.
I’ll have a comparative review of some of the blends these heritage stills create in the coming weeks.