Things have changed a lot since Velier launched it’s Clairin brand in 2013. From three producers (now five), the communal blend and its aged variant, countless aged expressions, and now a long aged Sajous in an iconic Velier black bottle, there’s a lot going on and hopefully something for everyone.
It’s not just the offerings that have changed, though. The rum world has its eyes on Velier, due to some alleged issues, both from the brand and the man behind it, Luca Gargano. Due to the current climate in the rum world, I took two weeks to heavily consider whether I should post this review or not. I’ve decided that while I shouldn’t ignore the issue or wait for it to pass, an essay about systemic racism, neo-colonialism, and privilege is beyond the scope of this review or my ability. I can, however, offer links to a few resources, to help you navigate these issues, such as this introductory article to the current controversy as it relates to rum and Velier, as well as this Canadian source explaining systemic racism, privilege, any other issues; it is light, to the point, and full of sources for further reading.
What I can say with certainty is that I look forward to more information to come to light regarding these issues. Whether all of the allegations are true or not, Velier would certainly not be the first, last, nor even the only company (or company head) that could be accused of unseemly practices; I hope that this controversy leads to more accountability across the rum industry. At the end of the day, I would hope to support as much as I can the brands whose ethics align with mine; more information, learning, and critical thinking is the only way to make that possible.
I would hope that Mr. Gargano would step down from his position immediately if allegations are found to be true and make some honest, heartfelt apologies and reparations; however, based on the way he crassly apologised for using a photo of a slave being muzzled to express his beliefs about the conspiracy of COVID-19 and Bill Gates using vaccines to fill us with tracking chips and turn us into 5G signal towers (among other things), I do not have high hopes. I would also hope that when Velier makes its financials public about its work in Haiti, they will be vindicated regarding whether they are actually paying their producers equitably; if not, I hope they will make changes to rectify this disturbing issue. I will certainly add a follow-up as events develop.
In the meantime, let’s get down to the liquids I wanted to talk about today. Clairin itself is a traditional, cane juice spirit from Haiti, ancient, a true cane to glass product that utilises unique sugarcane varietals as well as ambient yeast and bacteria; it is one of the most unique spirit categories I’ve yet encountered as well as one of the truest and most enjoyable expressions of terroir in spirits outside of Mexico.
Of course, it must be admitted that this experience and enjoyment of what is essentially Haitian moonshine is also bittersweet. These products and the environment that currently sustains them, from the way they are sold bulk to a foreign company as a commodity, to being only noticed when someone else exports it and slaps a sufficiently marketable label on the bottle, only exist in the space they do because of how poorly the world has treated Haiti since the slaves revolted against their French masters.
Keep in mind that this is a systemic issue, and I’m not pointing fingers at any one specific person or company. All things considered, I am happy that people are appreciating Haitian products, and I consider it one of the first steps forward of many.
I haven’t tried a lot of clairin, mostly just ones from producers that Velier features, which are often the ones that can create enough to keep up with the demands of an international brand, can make consistent product, and are able to keep their product from being tainted from things like lead or ethyl carbamate, the latter being something that Canada is currently fairly sensitive to, but more on that another time.
So, we come to some aged clairins, which can be seen as a bit of a contradiction, as clairin is traditionally not an aged product and these expressions are not meant for local Haitians, but rather for Western consumers with coin to spare for such experiments.
It’s important to note that these spirits that are meant to be drunk unaged are created in such a way to have much expression and balance right off the still, so spending time in wood will remove some of the most delicate, volatile attributes and possibly even upset the balance. The goal with cask aging a spirit is for the wood and spirit to make an exchange, and that their time together will create a whole that is at least as interesting and delicious as the untouched spirit.
These three expressions were chosen by Kate Perry, the American market manager for La Maison & Velier and were all aged in ex-oloroso sherry casks, sourced from Lustau, an esteemed sherry producer.
Clairin Casimir – (aged 29 mo. in ex-sherry, 52.9%)
Wow, really sweet and funky, capers and pickle juice, and some dunder smuggled over from Long Pond perhaps. Also, very herbal, with mint, basil, and some bouillon cubes. I will say that right off the bat, this one has a pervasive cheesiness. Spend some time with it and you will be able to smell past this. A touch of wet leather, like standing outside a tannery, and a suppleness that makes you salivate, some heavily sauteed red bell peppers, a touch of eucalyptus, some dried fruit as well, like stale tutti frutti. The sweetness persists, a ton of milk chocolates filled with orange and raspberry cream. A truly exceptional nose here. Going from the unaged to this one, all you notice is the milk chocolate and fruit cream, there is certainly more nuance here. The palate is hot, sweet, and savoury like the nose, but no lingering sweetness, and flavour seems to disappear a little too quickly. This is a solid one and though the palate certainly aligns with the nose, I think its youth betrays it. The finish is mildly tannic, leaving the back center of my tongue a little furry. A fair bit of heat on the finish with not as much of a lasting impression as I’d like. It’s odd that the aged version here is hotter than the unaged. Like a sauna in my mouth. A weirdo that remains true to its roots, it will be appreciated more by those who enjoy unaged clairin and strikes the best balance between spirit and cask.
(88pt)
Clairin Vaval – (aged 39 mo. in ex-sherry, 50%)
Very different from the Casimir, exceptional, not as supremely sweet, more delicate, less cask influence, some of the weirdest elements are muted, but leaves many good ones. A little resinous, but brine as well; dried apricots and fresh figs and licorice, a little plasticine. A touch of marzipan.. Nose is not as attractive as the Casimir, but is still lovely. Some thyme, fig newton, cooked pears, a bag of jubjubs, and a little vanilla. Super juicy on the palate and briny, but again, the finish seems a bit short and quickly is mostly mild tannin. Heat is spicy again like the Casimir, with cloves and cassia, and a great oily texture, a bit of oxidised sherry and just a small whiff of sulfur. A bit simplistic in comparison. A nice one, but not as interesting as the Casimir. I find the oddness of this one, even more so with the cask, leaving me scratching my head for its use beyond an oddity, but there is enjoyment there nevertheless.
(84pt)
Clairin Sajous – (aged 29 mo. in ex-sherry, 56.4%)
Of the three expressions, the sherry is the most influential here. Going quickly from the unaged to this one is jarring, like unknowingly walking through a candy shop. Chocolate, delicate dry fruit, hazelnuts, dried apricots, fig newtons, a little coconut, vanilla, candied ginger, and a well-integrated alcohol expression really showcase the aromatic quality of this spirit. On the palate, the savoury elements of the unaged liquid really mesh nicely with the sweetness of the sherry. Although a fair amount of that original character has been traded away, it has gained a super lush profile. The original oily texture is very much still there, a character that reminds me of the sharp fruitiness of cold-brew coffee or high quality single origin dark chocolate. A bit closer in profile to the aged Casimir in terms of a heavier sherry influence, but this is far more indulgent. Certainly a very nice one to sip, even if there is once again a little more heat here than in the unaged juice.
An excellent pour; no, it does not stay true to the unaged, but it certainly goes in a very unique and special direction and is perfectly poised to attract those who can’t stand funky rum.
(90pt)
Final Thoughts
These expressions are perhaps even more different from each other than the unaged liquids and I think that this is a good thing. For those who want a great balance between base distillate and cask, go for the Casimir. If you enjoy wheater bourbons or sherry-bomb scotch, the Sajous is delectable, truly a crowd-pleaser. Of, if you just want something that will make your guests pause their conversation and recoil in joy/fear, go for the Vaval. Definitely all worth trying, but I think most people will only care to own one of the three.
A huge thank you to John for taking the plunge on these bottles and sending me some unnecessarily large samples, they were much appreciated, my friend.
I’ll end with some food for thought, I think appropriately using a quote from Kate Perry from her piece on The Rum Reader; “With the growing demand for authenticity, I find hope that the pendulum of modernity will swing back towards a world more authentic in its reflection”.
I fully agree; I hope specifically for the clairin producers of Haiti that no matter what happens with the current controversy, the global demand and appreciation Velier has helped built for their product will create opportunity for them to choose and retain their own definitions of authenticity, dictated through their own self-determination.